Exploring Los Pueblos Blancos in Nicaragua

Scattered throughout the hills approximately nine miles northwest of Masaya, Nicaragua are a collection of isolated towns known as Los Pueblos Blancos. Meaning White Villages, these small communities received their name because many of the buildings and streets were once constructed with a combination of volcanic rock, water, and limestone that gave them a chalky-white color. In addition, there are stories where many of the buildings were once whitewashed to ward off evil spirits. Unfortunately, most of buildings have since been painted in a variety of colors other than white and the roads have now been paved, but the villages are still an easy, one-day trip for any visitor in either Managua or Masaya. Each village has its own special characteristic and with an average elevation of 1,600 feet, the views of the surroundings are spectacular.

For visitors, one of the most important reasons to come to Los Pueblos Blancos is to shop for the fine arts and crafts produced by its highly skilled residents. Each individual town offers its own signature craft and it becomes immediately obvious what they are by just glancing at the roadside stands when you cross each border. Many of the artists support themselves and their families by selling their work and in several locations, visitors can even watch ceramics and pottery being fired in the on-site kilns. Each workshop produces crafts of all shapes and sizes that range from decorative dishes and vases to intricate wood carvings and rocking chairs. Some items include price tags while others do not. But in both cases, negotiation is highly expected. Unless you are in a hurry, take the time to walk through several workshops before purchasing something (since many of the stores sell the same items) and always bargain because it is part of the overall cultural experience.

The Towns of Los Pueblos Blancos

Catarina - Located at the crossroads of Los Pueblos Blancos, Catarina is mostly known for its excellent mirador (lookout point) as seen in the photo at the top of this article. It provides breathtaking views of Laguna de Apoyo (a volcanic crater lake) as well as the city of Granada and Lake Nicaragua. According to local legend, this viewpoint was one of young Augusto Sandino's favorite places to contemplate decisions and where he received his best ideas when planning the future liberation of the country. Visitors will find many stalls selling everything from t-shirts to arts and crafts as well as some perfectly placed restaurants with some of the best views in the region. But the town’s main crafts are its carved wooden furniture pieces as well as the bright, tropical plants produced by the well-known viveros (greenhouses) that attracts buyers from all over the area. For those arriving by car, safe and secure parking is available for a fee of C20.

San Juan de Oriente – Also known as San Juan de los Platos due to their tradition of producing high-quality ceramics, this picturesque colonial town has actually been in the pottery business for more than 1,000 years, although many its best artists were lost during the colonial period. Fortunately, the Sandinistas in the 1980s made an effort to revive the craft by forming the Artesanos Unidos, a cooperative union that trained locals in everything from using the potter’s wheel and firing the kiln to painting the finished products. The shops line the cobblestone streets and offer an overwhelming number of pottery, decorative pieces, and vases of all sizes as well as wall hangings that resemble little houses (casitas). The most famous workshop is the Cooperativa Quetzalcóatl, but there are at least a couple dozen other places to purchase these crafts. Again, bargaining is expected, so take the time to search out the best deal.

(Photo by Celestemy)

Diría – Located south of San Juan de Oriente, it also includes a mirador even though it is not as popular as Catarina’s. The mirador is located east of the cemetery, just south of the Parroquia San Pedro in the center of town. The church itself was built in 1650 at the location where Cacique (chief) Diriangén of the Dirian tribe first met conquistador Gil González Dávila in 1523. After the Spanish gave Diriangén an ultimatum (with a three-day deadline) to convert to Christianity, he refused and attacked the conquistadors instead. Today, both this town and Diriomo are named after the chief to commemorate his risky but brave act of defiance.

(Photo by Manfut)

Diriomo - Located across the street from Diría, it is known as the Witch Capital of the Meseta. It is known for its tradition of black magic and curanderos (folk healers), who claim to do everything from healing ailments to reading your future (for a negotiable fee). Whether you believe it or not, the healers of Diriomo have remained proud of their skills, even after periods of oppression. Since many of them offer their services directly from their homes, it is best to visit the alcadía (mayor's office) to ask about specific locations. The town is also known for its cajetas (rich fruit-flavored sweets) as well as an alcoholic corn beverage called chicha bruja.

Niquinohomo – Meaning Valley of the Warriors in Náhuatl, this 16th-century Spanish colonial village is known as the birthplace of Augusto César Sandino. A large, bronze statue of Sandino is proudly displayed at the entrance to town and his birthplace and childhood home is located at the northwestern corner of the town’s plaza. It includes a small room with a variety of important artifacts and biographical information of his dramatic and influential life. Admission is free and it is open weekdays from 9 a.m. to noon, and 2 to 6 p.m.

Masatepe - This colonial town provides more picturesque views of Masaya and centers around its specialty as the rocking chair capital of the country. The town’s former railway station has been transformed into one of the best artisan markets in the area where rows of cane-woven rocking chairs await a new home. Located at the main plaza is the Iglesia San Juan Bautista that offers spectacular views of the Volcán Masaya from its gates. The town is also known for several food specialties such as a soup called mondongo (tripe marinated with oranges and herbs and simmered with vegetables for hours), and tamugas, much like a nacatamale (cornmeal, meat, vegetables and herbs wrapped with banana leaves) but made with sticky rice instead of cornmeal.

San Marcos – Located approximately five miles west of Masatepe, this is the largest town of Los Pueblos Blancos. Compared to its quieter neighboring towns, San Marcos seems busy, mostly due to the student activity from its Ave Maria University. Historically, the town is located on one of the oldest human settlements in Nicaragua, and excavations have unearthed artifacts that date back to 2500 B.C. But it will always be known as the birthplace of Anastasio Somoza García, the original dictator who notoriously led the country through fear and intimidation. Not surprisingly, there are no statues in his honor in the town.

Exploring Estelí in Nicaragua

(Photo by Frederic Freno)

Estelí, the largest city in the northern highlands of Nicaragua, is located approximately 90 miles north of the capital of Managua. Situated in a flat valley with an elevation of 2,769 feet, it is surrounded by lush, green mountains, with some that reach more than 5,000 feet. This higher elevation provides cool temperatures year-round, which are a welcome respite from the sometimes stifling heat in the south. Due to the region’s climate and fertile soil, the surrounding agricultural farms thrive with many them producing some of the best coffee and tobacco in the world.

Despite its relatively peaceful appearance, Estelí has had a violent and turbulent past due to its political beliefs. Known as a devoted Sandinista center of activity, it saw heavy fighting and bloodshed during the revolution against the Somoza government in the late 1970s. Many of its residents still recall the violent conflicts and numerous bombings that Somoza ordered upon the city in his unsuccessful attempt to wipe out the insurrection. But despite the chaos, the people have remained extremely proud and supportive of the Sandinistas, which can still be seen in the murals near some of the bullet-marked buildings scattered throughout the area.

Today, Estelí has become one of the fastest growing cities in Nicaragua and many businesses have relocated there due to its top ranking from the World Bank. It maintains a wonderful combination of warm and relaxed attitudes despite its population of approximately 120,000. During the day, the city and its surrounding region is a great place to soak up the atmosphere of this northern portion of the country. But even more special are the quiet evenings when the streets become practically empty and the breeze become cold enough to actually cover up in bed for a good night’s rest.

Attractions In and Near Estelí

(Photo by Pasionyanhelo)

Catedral Nuestra Señora del Rosario de Estelí – Located on the eastern side of the small but busy Parque Central, this cathedral is the most architecturally interesting structure in the city. Originally built in 1823 as a simple adobe building with a straw roof, the addition of its baroque facade was added in 1889. The church was later redesigned into a more modern building complete with large columns, a neoclassical facade and a pair of bell towers. Compared to other large cathedrals in Nicaragua, this one is relatively plain but its interior is still worth visiting for just a brief moment. 

La Galería de Héroes y Mártires – Situated in a former jail used by Somoza, this small but emotional museum is devoted entirely to the revolution and the Estelí residents who were killed during that violent period. The approximately 300 employees are mostly mothers and widows of the soldiers and they maintain the important collection of old photographs, weapons, uniforms, and other personal items from their former loved ones. It is open Mondays through Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. and admission is free, although donations are greatly appreciated.

(Photo by Posada Angel Estelí)

La Casa de Cultura – Also located just south of the Parque Central, this colorful, mural-covered building is the cultural center of the city. It offers art exhibitions by local artists, instruction in art, dance, and music, as well as live performances on the weekends. It is open Mondays through Fridays from 9 a.m. to noon, and 2 to 5 p.m. In addition, the building also includes the Museo de Historia y Arqueología, which is a small museum of pre-Colombian artifacts and petroglyphs. It is open Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays from 9 a.m. to noon.

Tabacalero Santiago – Located outside of Estelí at Km. 141 on the Pan-American Highway, this is one of the best cigar factories in the area to visit. Free tours are offered by appointment only, and the tours cover everything from the initial stages of sun drying the tobacco leaves to the assembly room where hundreds of employees sit and tightly roll the leaves into magnums, coronas, and other well-known cigars. Its cigars have gained world-wide fame after major endorsements from celebrities such as Arnold Schwarzenegger and Bruce Willis. The tours are offered in Spanish, but the Hospedaje Luna (located one block north of the Parque Central) can arrange for an English-speaking guide. More information about can be found at: www.cafeluzyluna.com.

El Salto de la Estanzuela – Located in the Reserva Natural Tisey-Estanzuela, this is one of the most accessible waterfalls in the country. Visitors can either take the one-hour hike or drive to the foot of the falls in a high-clearance vehicle. The path begins just past the hospital at the southern end of Estanzuela, a small village just south of Estelí. Follow the path for approximately 2.5 miles to a sign marked, “Comunidad Estanzuela.” Enter through the gate and hike another mile until you reach the falls. The waterfall cascades down approximately 100 feet into a deep pool that is perfect for swimming. If you choose to swim, try to avoid the area directly under the waterfall because rocks have been known to fall, especially after a hard rain. Unfortunately, there is also trash floating around the rocks, which is a sign that more work needs to be done to monitor dumping in the area. Located nearby is El Mirador, one of the best viewpoints in the country. On a clear day, you can actually see as far as El Salvador.

(Photo by Phil Hughes)

Reserva Miraflor – This 80-square-mile nature reserve, located approximately 17 miles northeast of Estelí, is one of Nicaragua’s best-preserved but least visited natural attractions. Founded in 1996 as a privately maintained reserve, it is actually home to more than 5,000 locals who currently produce everything from coffee and potatoes to milk and cheese. It also includes one of the largest collections of orchids in the world (with more than 300 species), and the natural home to more than 200 species of birds. The reserve itself consists of several different ecosystems ranging from dry, open plains to cloud forests with an elevation of more than 4,800 feet. The best way to enjoy the reserve is by staying with one of the families that open their homes to visitors. There are no luxury accommodations and many of houses don’t even have electricity, but what you get in return is getting to know a local, friendly family and a great base to explore the ancient caves, former pre-Columbian villages, and La Chorrera, which includes a 197-foot waterfall. To get to the reserve take one of the three daily buses from the northern bus terminal (COTRAN Norte) in Estelí. The ride is approximately 45 minutes each way. The UCA Miraflor is one of the main cooperatives that manage the reserve and it is the best place to book excursions and arrange homestays within the reserve. More information is provided by their website at: www.miraflor.org.

Exploring the Churches of Casco Viejo, Panama

In 1671, the city of Panama Viejo was pillaged and burned by Henry Morgan and his band of pirates leaving only one of its many churches standing. After the survivors relocated to a rocky peninsula on the Bahía de Panama to start all over, not only did they construct a walled city but it included one of the largest churches in all of Central America. But as the city prospered, it had simply become too crowded and the population scattered northeast into what is now modern-day Panama City.

By the latter half of the 20th century, this historic quarter (known as Casco Viejo) had become something of the past. The approximately 800 buildings including several churches fell into serious disrepair. Fortunately in 1997, the World Heritage Site organization realized its true worth and added Casco Viejo to its select list. Since then, wonderful changes have been made especially due to a massive urban development project that has painstakingly restored many of the structures into their original brilliance.

Today, the quarter is also known by several other names such as San Felipe, Casco Antiguo, and of course, Casco Viejo. The churches in particular are some of the most picturesque and historically interesting with architectural styles that range from French and Spanish Colonial to baroque and neoclassical. In addition to its excellent museums and historic plazas, its churches should definitely be explored by any visitor.

Historic Churches of Casco Viejo

Photo by O. Polar

Catedral Metropolitana – Dominating the western side of the Plaza de la Independencia is one of the largest cathedrals in Central America. Built between 1688 and 1796, it was built using stones from the ruined cathedral at Panama Viejo and remained virtually abandoned until a badly needed restoration in 2003 had transformed it into what you see today. It is a fascinating mix of old and new architecture with the darkened stone and wooden main entrance flanked by the mother-of-pearl-encrusted, gleaming white bell towers. The interior is moderately decorated but the marble altar is worth seeing.  

Photo by Mel Panama

Iglesia Santo Domingo and the Arco Chato – Located on the corner of Avenida A and Calle 3 are the ruins of the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo. Built in 1678, it thrived until a fire devastated the building in 1756. Unfortunately, all that remains today is an outer shell that was never rebuilt. For more than three centuries, its entrance included an interesting flat arch known as the Arco Chato. At a height of approximately 35 feet with a 49-foot span, it was mostly noted for its lack of external support. This structure was so impressive that it was constantly cited as a powerful example of the country’s seismic stability when the United States considered taking over the Panama Canal project. But in November 2003, after centuries of neglect, the arch finally  gave in and collapsed. Today, the ruins are being restored with eventual plans that include cultural and artistic presentation space for the public. 

Iglesia San Jose – Located at the corner of Avenida A and Calle 8 is this church that dates back to 1673. Although it has since been remodeled, it is mostly known for its decorative baroque Golden Altar, one of the few treasures that survived Henry Morgan’s raid of Panama Viejo in 1671. According to a local legend, the altar was painted in black to disguise its real value. It consists of carved mahogany that is painted and veneered in gold.

Iglesia San Francisco de Asis – As seen in the photo at the top of this post, this is one of the smallest but most decorative churches in Casco Viejo. Built in the 17th century, it was devastated by a major fire twice: once in 1737 and again in 1756. Fortunately, it was beautiful restored in 1998 to what you see today. The church is generally closed during non-service hours but you can go to the parish office on Avenida B and ask to look inside. Generally, someone is usually willing to let you look around. Compared to its beautiful facade and bell tower, its interior is relatively uninteresting except for a wooden confessional that dates back to 1736. It is located next to the Plaza Bolívar.

Photo by Casco Viejo Tourism

La Iglesia San Felipe Neri – This small church was established in 1688 and it is one of the oldest in the area. It has served in many different roles ranging from a school and a seminary to a nursing home for the elderly. It has undergone several extensive restorations with its latest in 1995.

Photo by Mel O.R.

Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús – Located at Avenida A and Calle 7, this Jesuit convent and church was built in 1673, just before the Spanish banished the Jesuits from the colonies. Around 1740, additional structures were added to accommodate a school that later became the first university in the city. Unfortunately, the entire complex burned down in 1781 and was never rebuilt. To make things worse, an earthquake in 1882 further damaged the structure. But today, it too is undergoing a thorough restoration.

La Iglesia de la Merced – Located at the corner of Avenida Central and Calle 9, this church dates back to 1680. Much like its larger counterpart, the Catedral Metropolitana, its baroque facade was built with stones from Panama Viejo and its two white bell towers stand in stark contrast to the darker stone entrance.

Exploring the Historical Attractions in Casco Viejo, Panama

Photo by Mel O.R.

After the original city of Panama Viejo was pillaged in 1671 by Henry Morgan and his notorious band of pirates, the survivors (under the orders of the King of Spain) moved to a rocky peninsula on the Bahía de Panama to begin again. Just two years later, the new city was completed with a massive seawall that made it much easier to defend against future invaders. As the city gained prestige and power, its population began to overflow the same walls that once protected them and spread toward the northeast into what is now modern-day Panama City.

But by the latter half of the 20th century, this older portion of Panama City (known as Casco Viejo) had become reduced to just a small historic quarter with a once glorious past. With a loss of influence and power, it gradually fell into disrepair and began to fade into history. But in 1997, Casco Viejo was declared a World Heritage Site and from that time, a massive urban development project has painstakingly restored a portion of the approximately 800 buildings back into their originial appearance. The restoration project is still underway supported by both the government and private sectors.

Currently, the district is known by several names: San Felipe, Casco Antiguo, and of course, Casco Viejo. It is the most picturesque and historically interesting area of Panama City. Everywhere you look, the historic buildings display a wide range of architectural styles that include French, Spanish Colonial , Art Deco, and even Caribbean. With its charming plazas, excellent museums, and historic churches, this former walled city has easily become one of the top destinations in the region, second only to the Panama Canal.

Historical Attractions in Casco Viejo

Photo by O. Polar

Plaza de la Independencia – This cobblestoned main plaza, also known as the Parque Catedral, is located in the heart of Casco Viejo at Calle 5 and Avenida Central. It is known for being the site where Panamanian independence was officially declared from Spain on November 3, 1903. This plaza includes a charming gazebo and plenty of shaded benches that makes it a great place to sit and watch people mingle, gossip, or just relax under the large Tabebuia trees. But most importantly for visitors, many of the area’s main attractions border the plaza and the mixture of the surrounding Spanish and French architecture offers many photo opportunities. Dominating its entire western side is the plaza’s original namesake, the Catedral Metropolitana, one of the largest cathedrals in Central America. In addition, the plaza is the site of the monthly Flea Market and Food Fair, which occurs one Sunday a month. With the right timing, you can sample food provided by the local restaurants, watch live musical entertainment, and bargain with the vendors selling everything from souvenirs and t-shirts to arts and crafts.

Photo by Mel Panama

Palacio Presidencial – Located two blocks north of the Plaza de la Independencia between Calles 5 and 6, is the official residence of the President of Panama. This palace was originally built in 1673 and served as the home to several colonial and Columbian governors. In 1922, it was rebuilt into its grand neo-Moorish style during the administration of President Belisario Porras who also introduced the white Darién herons to the property. Today, the herons continue to freely roam the grounds and the palace’s nickname has become the Palacio de Las Garzas because of them. For obvious security reasons, the building is closed to the general public, but the structure is worth visiting at least to snap a few photos.

Photo by Flora Torrance

Hotel Central – Located on the eastern side of the Plaza de la Independencia is the concrete shell of the Grand Hotel, which was (during its time) one of the most luxurious hotels in Central America. It was frequented by many dignitaries over the years and it is also known as the site where jubilant crowds gathered to celebrate the Independence from Spain in 1903 by pouring champagne over the head of General Esteban Huertas, who took part in the revolution. In 2004, the hotel was closed for a major restoration with plans to become a 140-room luxury hotel, one of the largest in the area. But at the time of this post, the hotel is still being completed despite the almost seven-year time span. It is one of many historic structures in Casco Viejo that are slowly being returned to their former glory.

Photo by Mel Panama

Plaza de Francia – Located south on Calle 1 at the southernmost tip of Casco Viejo, is a large square that was once the main plaza of the walled city. Enclosed on three sides by defensive seawalls, it was designed by Leonardo de Villanueva in honor of the approximately 22,000 thousand French workers who died from disease in a disastrous first attempt to build the Panama Canal. A French-style obelisk stands watch over the plaza and it includes a dozen marble plaques that offer vivid details about the tragedy. In addition to the monument, the French Embassy and the Instituto Nacional de Cultura, the plaza’s primary historic structure is Las Bovedas (The Vaults). During the colonial period, the plaza was a busy military center and the vaults under the walls once served as the city’s jail. Because the jail was built below sea level, high tides would sometimes flood the cells, drowning the unfortunate prisoners. Beautifully restored in 1983, the vaults are now home to an excellent French restaurant of the same name and a small art gallery. You can also walk on top of the seawall for excellent views of Panama City’s skyline and the line of large ships awaiting their turn through the Panama Canal.

Photo by Mel Panama

Teatro Nacional – Located just south of the Plaza Bolivar on Avenida B, this national theater opened its doors in 1908. Since it was designed by Genaro Ruggieri, who also designed the world famous La Scala Theater in Milan, it includes near-perfect acoustics and a highly decorated, red-and-gold interior complete with crystal chandeliers and dramatic busts of famous actors. Its highlight is the vaulted ceiling that depicts the birth of the nation created by Roberto Lewis, a well-known Panamanian artist. The entire building was beautifully restored in the early 1970s and 2000s, and visitors can take a docent-lead tour during opening hours.

Photo by Casco Viejo Tourism

Antiguo Club Union – Also known as the Club de Clases y Tropas, this bombed ruin overlooking the sea to the east was once a club for Manuel Noriega and other Panamanian elite. Destroyed by Noriega’s National Guard during the U.S. invasion, its position on the waterfront is still an interesting site mostly for its view of modern Panama City’s skyline. The site was also used for a formal ball scene in the 2008 James Bond film “Quantum of Solace.” It is located on the seafront northeast of the corner of Avenida A and Calle 1. At the time of the post, the area is completely closed due to renovations, but you can still view it from the outside.

For those interested in exploring the number of historic churches in Casco Viejo, check out my post: Exploring the Churches of Casco Viejo, Panama.

Exploring the Museums in Casco Viejo, Panama

After the city of Panama Viejo was destroyed by Henry Morgan and his band of pirates in 1671, the survivors (under the direct orders of the King of Spain) moved to a rocky peninsula on the Bahía de Panama to start all over again. By 1673, the new city was completed and it included a massive wall that made it much easier to protect against future invaders. As the city prospered, its population began to overflow the walls that once protected them and spread east into what is now modern-day Panama City.

But as Panama City continued to expand in the latter half of the 20th century, this area now known as Casco Viejo, continued had become reduced to just a small historic quarter with a once glorious past. With a loss of influence and prestige, it gradually fell into disrepair and began to disappear into history. But in 1997, Casco Viejo was declared a World Heritage Site and since then, a massive urban development project has painstakingly restored a portion of the approximately 800 buildings back into their former glory. Currently, the restoration project is still underway supported by both the government and private corporations.

Today, the district is known by several names: San Felipe, Casco Antiguo, and of course, Casco Viejo. It is the most picturesque and historically interesting part of Panama City. Everywhere you turn, the historic buildings display a combination of architectural styles that range from French and Spanish Colonial to Art Deco and Caribbea. With its charming plazas, beautiful churches, and excellent museums, this former walled city has easily become on the of the top tourist attractions in the city, second only to the Panama Canal. 

The Museums in Casco Viejo

Photo by Mel Ortega

Museo de Historia Panameña -  On the southwestern corner of the Plaza de la Independencia is the neoclassical Palacio Municipal that dates back to to 1910. It includes a small but impressive history museum on the second floor and its collection of paintings, documents and sculptures cover the entire history of Panama. The collection is grouped into three overall historical periods: Colonial (1501 to 1821), Departmental (1821 to 1903), and Republican (1903 to the present. It is a great place to learn about the country's history and it only takes about an hour. The museum is open Mondays through Fridays from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Museo del Canal Interoceánico - Located on the southeastern side of the Plaza de la Independencia is the Panama Canal Museum, established in 1997. For those who want to learn more about the Panama Canal, the exhibits in this museum include a wide array of photographs, videos, and documents (such as the original canal treaties) that cover the triumphs and tragedies of the canal from the first attempt by the French to the successful completion by the United States. All of the displays are in Spanish but English-speaking guides as well as audio tours are also available for a small additional fee. The building itself dates from 1874 and it has served many roles ranging from office space for the original French and U.S. Canal Companies to the main post office in 1912. The museum is open Tuesdays through Sundays from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. More information can be found at their website: www.museodelcanal.com.

Photo by Casco Viejo Tourism

Museo de Arte Religioso Colonial - This small museum is located in the former chapel of the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo at Avenida A and Calle 3. Built in the second quarter of the 1700s, this historic building was fortunately restored in 1974 without destroying any of its original structure. The museum includes the most complete collection of colonial religious art in the country with pieces that range from 18th-century paintings and wood carvings to an engraved silver cross that dates back to the 16th century. What is most impressive is that many of the pieces in the collection actually survived the pillaging of Panama Viejo where they were once located. The museum is open from Tuesdays through Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Photo by Saphira

Museo de la Esmeralda - Located in a former bank on Calle 6 just north of the Plaza de la Independencia, this small museum covers the complete history of emeralds, its mining process and its lucrative industry. It even includes a replica of an emerald mine in the former bank's vault that you can enter and view (although children seem to enjoy it much more than adults). Admission to the museum is free, but the assumption is that you will be enticed to purchase something at the on-site emerald jewelry store before or after exploring the museum. The museum is open Mondays through Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Exploring the Plazas in Casco Viejo, Panama

After the destruction of Panama Viejo by Henry Morgan and his band of pirates in 1671, the survivors (under the orders of the King of Spain) relocated to a rocky peninsula on the western edge of the Bahía de Panama to start over. By 1673, the new city was built complete with a massive wall that made it much easier to defend and from that period on, the city began to prosper. Its population eventually overflowed the walls that once protected them and spread rapidly toward the northeast into what has become modern-day Panama City and its suburbs.

But as the larger and more modern Panama City continued to expand in the latter half of the 20th century, Casco Viejo had become just a small district with a once glorious past. With no more power and prestige, it slowly fell into disrepair and began to fade into history. Fortunately, Casco Viejo was officially declared a World Heritage Site in 1997 and since then, a massive urban development project has painstakingly restored many of the approximately 800 buildings back into their former glory. At the time of this post, the restoration project is still underway by both the government and private sectors and you will see many ruins in between the gleaming new restorations.

Today, the district is known by several names: San Felipe, Casco Antiguo, and of course, Casco Viejo. It remains the most picturesque and historically interesting part of Panama City due to its structures that display a complete mix of architectural styles including French, Spanish Colonial, Republican, Art Deco and even Caribbean. With so much to see, it comes as no surprise why this former walled city is now one of the most visited tourist attractions in the region, second only to the Panama Canal.

Plazas in Casco Viejo

Photo by O. Polar

Plaza de la Independencia - This cobblestoned main plaza, also known as the Parque Catedral, is located in the heart of Casco Viejo at Calle 5 and Avenida Central. It is known for being the site where Panamanian independence was officially declared from Spain on November 3, 1903. This plaza includes a charming gazebo and plenty of shaded benches that makes it a great place to sit and watch people mingle, gossip, or just relax under the large, flowering Tabebuia trees. But most importantly for visitors, many of the area's main attractions border the plaza and the mixture of the surrounding Spanish and French architecture offers many great photo opportunities. Dominating its entire western side is the plaza's original namesake, the Catedral Metropolitana, one of the largest catedrals in Central America. In addition, the plaza is the site of the monthly Flea Market and Food Fair, which occurs one Sunday a month. With the right time, you can sample food provided by the local restaurants, watch live musical entertainment, and bargain with the vendors selling everything from souvenirs and t-shirts to arts and crafts.

Plaza de Francia - Located south on Calle 1 at the southernmost tip of Casco Viejo, is a large square that was once the main plaza of the walled city. Enclosed on three sides by defensive seawalls, it was designed by Leonardo de Villanueva in honor of the approximately 22,000 French workers who died from disease in a disastrous first attempt to build the Panama Canal. An obelisk stands watch over the plaza and it includes a dozen marble plaques that offer vivid details about the tragedy. In addition to the obelisk, the French Embassy, and the Instituto Nacional de Cultura, the plaza's primary historic structure is Las Bovedas (The Vaults). During the colonial period, the plaza was a busy military center and the vaults under the walls once served as the city's jail. Because the jail was built below sea level, high tides would sometimes flood the cells, drowning the unfortunate prisoners. The vaults, beautifully restored in 1983, are now home to an excellent French restaurant of the same name and a small art gallery. You can also walk on top of the seawall for excellent views of Panama City's skyline and the line of large ships awaiting their turn through the Panama Canal.

Plaza Bolivar - Located at Avenida B and Calle 4, this small but charming plaza was dedicated in 1883 to Simón Bolívar, whose statue stands in its center crowned with a condor. The plaza is lined with small cafes and restaurants complete with large umbrellas to sit and enjoy the view of the surroundings. On the northeast corner of the plaza is an old monastery where Bolívar and Pan-American Congress first convened in the building's chapter room in 1826. The building was beautifully restored but unfortunately, it now houses government offices that are off limits to the general public. But you can still admire it from the outside as you enjoy your espresso on the square. Next door is the Iglesia San Francisco de Asis, one of the smallest but most decorative churches in Casco Viejo. Built in the 17th century, it was devastated by a major fire in 1737, and again in 1756. Fortunately, it was restored in 1998 and although the interior is fairly uninteresting, its facade and bell tower is truly magnificent.

Photo by Lou Feltz

Plaza Herrera - Located at Avenida A and Calle 9, this pleasant little plaza is lined with large 19th-century houses with some that have fallen into disrepair while others have been beautifully restored. Either way, the buildings provide a glimpse into this historic location's once prosperous past. Originally the site of the Plaza de Triunfo, where many bullfights were held, it was renamed in honor of General Tomás Herrera in 1922, who was the military leader of the an unsuccessful attempt for independence in 1840. He eventually served as the President of Columbia and was assassinated in 1854. The plaza's centerpiece is the statue of Herrera heroically poised on horseback.